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MAGICAL KRABI
No matter what those glossy, hard-sell tourist brochures say, Thailand is largely a breadth of boring flatlands.
But not Krabi. Its terrain is so different you’d think you’ve strayed into another country. The province, more than 800 kilometres south of Bangkok, is an entirely different world. It has the country’s most stunning landscapes -- majestic limestone cliffs, lush forest covers, dramatic rock formations, pristine island beaches.
With its glorious natural beauty and utter tranquility, Krabi has been likened the fabled Himalayan city of Xanadu. Just like Xanadu, Krabi exudes beauty and mystery.
It has the distinction of having the country’s oldest history of continued settlement, dating as far back as 25,000 to 35,000 B.C. Yet it had eluded, until lately, much of the tourist droves who had ravaged Samui and Phuket.
But thanks to Leonardo DiCaprio, whose hit film, “The Beach,” was taken almost entirely in one of the province’s most fascinating offshore islands, Phi Phi, Krabi’s secret – as tropical Asia’s remaining paradise -- is now out in the open. In no time, tourists from around the world were making a beeline for Krabi.
The true essence of Krabi as a tropical wonder lies in its many offshore islands, like that awesome beach trio—Railay East, Railay West, and Phra Nang—which can be reached only by boat. The Railays are crescent-shaped shores facing opposite directions, separated only by a large coconut grove. Phra Nang, on the other hand, lies below cliff laces looking out at the cluster of karsts called Koh Poda, about ten kilometers offshore. Koh Poda is a favorite diving and snorkeling destination.
Phi Phi is among Krabi’s most popular attractions. It was here that DiCaprio’s movie was shot. Uninhabited, Phi Phi is a dream destination. The breathtaking beaches are almost lily white, the lagoons as clear as gin and the deep waters emerald green.
Phi Phi is actually a group of two islands, Phi Phi Don and Phi Phi Le. Phi Phi Don, the bigger of the two islands, boasts several long, powdery white beaches with clear turquoise sea water, and colourful underwater scenes. Phi Phi Le, on the other hand, is known for its Viking caves, where thousands of birds’ nests (swallows) have become both a tourist attraction and big business. Birds’ nests are in demand outside Thailand.
Other than Phi Phi, several other small islands dot the Krabi area of the Andaman waters (130 in all) and they are often more famous than the mainstream attractions on offer on the mainland.
There is Koh Lanta, for instance. Accessible by boat from Phi Phi, Koh Lanta is a group of coral-fringed islands. The main island, Koh Lanta Yai, is where you can find Thailand’s last surviving sea gypsies, Chao Le, whose colourful ancient customs remain intact. A good time to visit is during the full-moon on the sixth and eleventh months of the lunar calendar when they set adrift, accompanied by traditional singing and dancing, ornate boats as part of a ceremony to bring good luck and prosperity.
But to really appreciate Krabi one must explore the mainland. As one recent visitor has said, “Krabi can put you right in the middle of Xanadu settings you never thought existed and I mean not just the seascapes.”
The best way to experience this magic land is by hiring a motorbike, jeep, or anything that lets you feel the wind in your face. Krabi’s verdant, sun-kissed countryside is awesome with its dramatic rock formations, lush mountains, untamed jungles, refreshing waterfalls, and rows of lolling rubber trees.
It is easy to find your scenic points along the gently winding roads, or better yet, stop-over at a secluded hamlet.
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A favourite spot of many is the Tiger Cave Temple, one of the most famous forest wats (temple) in the South. Visiting this temple is like visiting a mysterious temple in some distant time and eerie place.
The main temple is built into a long, shallow limestone cave at the base of the mountain and a nearby staircase leads to a small valley. Follow the forest trail around the valley floor and you begin to explore a labyrinth of shrines, caves and monastic cells that look like doll-houses built into the caves and cliffs.
Along the wooded path are what some locals call “clues to religious enlightenment”: moral messages on trees, photos of split cadavers, even skeletons in glass boxes! Obviously, not a few Buddhist monks have tried to follow the footsteps of Lord Buddha in this forest.
And what about a “talk with elves and pixies”? Put life’s riddles to the little people at Than Bokkharani Botanical Gardens. Than Bok, as locals call it, is off Highway 4, one kilometre south of Ao Luk. Hard to believe it’s real, this one, but it is.
The sights you’ll long remember are the waterfalls of emerald green feeding large, shaded lotus pools. Birds seem to have magical colours as they flutter like angel dust as locals frolic in sun-speckled streams. The place is popular for picnics, but it could well be a place for fairy tale story-telling.
For motorbike or jeep rentals, check out the travel agents on Pattana Road, Krabi Town. Mini-buses to these attractions leave from Uttarakit Road throughout the day.
Not as visually stunning but equally hard to comprehend is the Fossil Shell Beach (Susan Hoi), located just 19 kilometres west of town on Laem Pho Bay. For 75 million years, these snail shells have been fossilizing around the clock and the result is huge slabs of rock, tabletop smooth, jutting into the ocean. It is one of only three such sites in the world.
When it comes to beach, Ao Nang lords it over in Krabi. Located north of Railay West beyond the long cliff battlements, Ao Nang is extensively developed and has good resort hotels. The best time to visit the beach is between November and April when humidity is low and nights can be cool. Most European and Scandinavian tourists visit in droves this time of the year. It is a favourite destination among local tourists during the Songkran holidays, which are in April.
Krabi is a good family destination. You can bring your children along, but be sure to bring essentials: sunhats, creams, medicines, special food, and a separate water container for babies to be sure you always have sterile water for them. Disposable diapers are available in Ao Nang beach supermarkets. Nights can be cool sometimes, so bring some warm clothing for your children. Milk, eggs, fruits and porridges are readily available in supermarkets here. Babysitters are available for a moderate charge at your hotel.
When packing, keep in mind that you will be in the tropics, but that it can get cold in the mountains. Generally, you will want to dress light and wear natural fibres that absorb perspiration. A medium-weight sweater or wind breaker is also a must as is a sturdy pair of shoes. Suits and ties are almost never worn.
Don't bring too much, as you will be tempted by the great variety of inexpensive clothes available here. Most tourists find a cotton batik shirt more comfortable than what they brought along.
Getting there
By Bus
Buses leave Bangkok for Krabi daily in the evening at the Southern Bus Terminal. The journey takes about 12 hours. The fare in a 24-seater air-conditioned bus is Bt655. It’s Bt446 or Bt421 in a 40-seater air-conditioned bus and Bt234 in a non air-conditioned bus.
By Train
From the Bangkok Railway Station, take the train to one of the following stations: Trang, Phun Pin in Surat Thani Province, or Thung Song in Nakhon Si Thammarat Province. From any of these places, a bus may be taken onward to Krabi.
By Air
Contact : PB Air at 0-2261-0220-5
: Phuket Air at 0-2285-5038-9
: Thai Airways International ( TG ) at 0-2280-0060
: Executive Wings ( Privileged Private Flight ) at 0-2535-6784-5
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